I'm in Heidelberg, Germany trying not to say the obvious: The World Cup is over-rated. And every time I order a salad I get something like this (pictured). Which is great, but huge. I checked into a hotel about 7 miles out of town. It was in the country, surrounded by hundreds of miles of paved "hiking trails", open fields where cows and goats huddled in the shade of fruit trees, a hotel visited by mostly men, lone, inveterate readers and chronicle wanderers. The bus stopped running at 8. There was no way to get back and forth to town. So I hiked, sometimes three times a day. I stumbled upon a couple making love under a blanket one evening just as the sun was setting. Remarkably, they were back at the same spot the next night, he carrying a platter of doughly-looking pizza slices, she with two bottles of cheap Brut. Germany is more beautiful than I thought--but it's not very wild. It doesn't get dark until maybe 10:30. I can't sleep, the hotel so quiet it becomes impossible to think. I looked out the window and saw the dark shape of a gray fox trotting through the open fields. He looked like he meant business. Can you blame him?